Primate Diaries: An epilogue

AUTHOR’S NOTE: This is an account of my experiences with the Macaca Nemestrina Project in Perak, Malaysia.  I am finally in a place with much better internet access. Excuse the atrocious spelling and grammar. I’m using a tablet and I miss MS Word pointing out my errors. Photos are more difficult to upload and hope that my words are enough to paint a picture.

If not- follow me on twitter @mad_megs or instagram-meghamajoe for some images and videos.

Please read the previous posts for context. Feedback and questions are appreciated. Curiosity drives us. It drove me to this adventure



It has been exactly a week since I left Malaysia. A lot of my important thoughts and experiences are chronicled already but I know that that’s easier to do. When my friends and family ask me to tell them ‘How Malaysia was’ I am overwhelmed with so many things to say and emotions and memories attached to them but seem uninteresting without context or a connected story. I find myself answering -“Awesome”, “Amazing”, “great” and “I loved it” which I guess is the jist of it and convenient to say because I can’t possibly summarise explain all of the things I experienced without prompts. Words are more important and lose meaning or change meaning over time. The pictures I took, so many of them, plastered across my social media- was amusing at the time and the most meaningful to me; to others who are bombarded with images everyday- it is but a small novelty, this passing moment of me reminiscing-and not well.


And yet I can’t help but reflect on what I experienced. I was anxious about jumping into a role where I believed my investment would never be as much since I was only volunteering. I was quite wrong. I thought living there would be filled with boredom and I’d be ‘slumming it’- it was more convenient than I thought. I thoroughly under-estimated exactly how physically strenuous the day can get and that I would eventually get used to it (I was wrong). I thought all this walking up and down and climbing would mean rock hard abs, killer thighs and brilliant upper body strength. I just have immensely calloused feet, a crazy tan and no perceivable physical changes. And yet I know that I am stronger- physically and mentally than I ever was before.


I thank anyone and everyone I ever crossed paths with. Most of all Dr. Nadine Ruppert for being open to experimenting- with people. That is how we all learn best. Trial and error. For all her support and her big-heart and jovial disposition. She has a vision and works on multiple projects simultaneously where she is equally actively involved and I hope to be able to do at least half of what she does. Anna, of course is my personal badass hero. She is silent and soft-spoken, so different from me- a different class of introvert. I have of course waxed lyrical about her enthusiasm for science, her speed of hill climbing and her uncanny ability to locate and keep track of AMY. Mimi of course has more similarities to me- a lot of it could be because of our cultures being similar and having similar problems but she is amusing as she is resillient and charitable. Plus she introduced me to paneram and minyak gamat and was my first guide into non-touristy Malaysia. Vino is my unlikely friend. This weirdo is the clumsy and fragile-looking but resourceful and brave. She watches creepy violent Anime and plays graphic videogames with tons of violence so you probably do not want to mess with her. And yet she is incredibly sweet and an amazing artist with an imagination that I can’t even imagine. Michele is most comfortable with her curiousity- about EVERYTHING. A trait she and I share despite our difference in opinion about many a thing. She is the yin to my yang. She is the most courageous of all the people mentioned above for coming all the way from the cold Netherlands, never having done this before, fighting her friends and family, even people at her University to prove that she is made of stronger stuff (SHE is). Leo and Lea- I of course didn’t spend as much time with them but they each add value to the project and to my life. Lea with her humble beginnings and big aspirations with a hint of practicality thrown in and Leo who is quite similar to me in his need to be wanting to analyse and be intellectually stimulated. And Ameer, who in close to 8-9 hours of interaction seemed like an interesting and passionate person.


Of course, I thank the macaques for bringing all of us together. Helping us discover things about each other and ourselves that we wouldn’t have done otherwise. We are all from different countries, educational and socio-cultural backgrounds but what binds us together is curiousity, passion and a hint of rebellion. The ability to critique societal norms. I am done with my adventure, my part in the story. But I hope each of us has been a useful addition to the story. As I contemplate my next step, I wish them all the best for their adventures to come.


Primate Diaries: Final stretch

AUTHOR’S NOTE: This is an account of my experiences with the Macaca Nemestrina Project in Perak, Malaysia.  I am finally in a place with much better internet access. Excuse the atrocious spelling and grammar. I’m using a tablet and I miss MS Word pointing out my errors. Photos are more difficult to upload and hope that my words are enough to paint a picture.

If not- follow me on twitter @mad_megs or instagram-meghamajoe for some images and videos.

Please read the previous posts for context. Feedback and questions are appreciated. Curiosity drives us. It drove me to this adventure


7th April (2 days to go): Good, Bad,Ugly


Anna had said the sleeping site was on the hill at checkpoint 1. “Well, that’s the smaller hill right?”. I was still basking in the glory of my feat of scaling the hill at checkpoint 2. “Well, yes” said Anna reluctantly “but the way is not as great so maybe we need to go slightly early. I mean, you do”. I said I’d manage. We had gone to watch Beauty and the Beast last night and Michele and I had had roughly 5 hours of sleep. And when I did finally reach the marked site after suffering a bruised knee and a throbbing head from having walked into a branch there wasn’t a peep, acoustic or visual-to signify the presence of the macaques. Michele was in the plantation, removing baits from the rat-traps and I needed to take a breather before anything else could be done. THIS MOMENT is crucial. You are tired, restless, anxious and disappointed all at once but also have to be hyperaware;cautious of every small sound or movement. And this panicky feeling is something I haven’t been able to rid myself of, even after almost 3 months of this.


Finally, I sensed movement in a clump of Bertam some 25 m higher up. Mina’s unmistakeable butt (Thank pig-tail gods for Mina’s permanently large swelling) peeked out. I stalked her obsessively till I spotted Curli. They were now moving to the highest point, a nice place albeit surrounded by ‘Bertam-barriers’ EVERYWHERE. Michele arrived after some confusion and a lot of adventures of her own I presume. ANd then we had some moments of calm and forced restfulness before she decided to follow and record Oliver’s behaviour. Luckily, he took his place on a rock just diagonally below us, thus giving us a great view. Michele identified the female grooming him as Febe, which in itself drew some raised eyebrows from us as Febe is not swelling and has only lost her infant about a month ago (they only start swelling about2-3 months after they lose their babies). We were hypothesising when Oliver, facing us and looking immensely relaxed decided to increase his pleasure by maturbating. We were both watching and noting it down when it seemed like he climaxed and also simultaneously attacked Febe who fell down the rock screaming all the way. After that seemingly unnecessary violence, Oliver resumed his previous poition, calmly licking semen off his hands and red penis. We watched the others for any reaction to the previous commotion- NOTHING!


After some time, AMY began to move down although quite slowly. We weren’t complaining. It could be quite dangerous to climb downhill fast. Goldie is still seemingly exclusively mating with Norbert. We went down the river after a while and AMY spent close to an hour there as well. When we did move again, the terrain had changed considerably and I had finally almost finished my id-check and catalogued some plants. My 10 leeces by 10 am had become 17 leeches by 12 pm possibly because I had been sitting near the stream. When we got close to the logging road, we reached a really difficult tangle of Bertam, rattan and spiny shrubs which meant we had to navigate through the weak spots. Michele had separated from me and the group while following Oliver and then had lost him and come face to face with wild pigs. I meanwhile was with Scarlet and Schatz grooming yet again which made me discover a hidden route to get out of the tangle. AMY and I crossed the logging road and Michele found us. SHe had decided to stalk Anakin but he was being even more jittery than usual. It didn’t help that Casimodo had sudenly decided to be extremely aggressive and eveeryone had become excited. Phoenix had snuck up on us and Michele decided to do him while we had time for our shift to come to end. I was just waching and celebrating Emma’s presence (I really don’t want her to ‘go missing’ while I’m here) when Michele cried out in excitement. FRANZI WAS BACK. The former “Heimdall of AMY” as I call him had become a rare occurance now, a peripheral, occasional presence in AMY like Jisuaf’s. Luckily for us, AMY soon decided to finally head out in the direction of the plantation, just in time for our shift to end. Leo and Lea were taking over, their first day together completely unsupervised by older volunteers and Anna.


We got back and had a relaxing lunch. Anna had had a not so relaxing day-off but we had got the Kembara back and decided to reduce her stress by accompanying her to set up the rat-traps for actual catching (three days before this was the pre-trapping period when we leave bait but the trap doesn’t shut on the rodent when the get the fruit. So they are moe likely to take fruit from the trap next time). Prior to that we thought we can go to the Segari Turtle Sanctuary, a place I’ve been meaning to go for so long. It’s quite easy to go from within the plantation but we realised that the Kembara keys were with Leo we decided to take the loong way around with the Ford. Anyway, we did have a good time at the turtle station. They have some Olive Ridleys and Green Sea turtles (these 2 species nest on the sea shores of Perak state) among others. Afterwards, we got to the plantation and set the traps so they actually close this time, which obviously took way longer than we had thought. And then we saw that an importnat piece that helps lock the trap was missing from one of the traps. Anna was crest-fallen. I volunteered to accompany her immediately with tools and wire to fix the trap asap.


On the way back home it had struck me that we actually had been extremely stupid. WE DID have another set of copies for the Kembara. The good news was, we could actually take the Kembara to fix the trap. We were on the way out of camp when Leo ad Lea arrived….a little earlier than expected. “Bad news. We had them the whole time, except they suddenly started to move at 6:40 down a really rocky hill and we lost them around 7”. We’d deal with this problem later, it is unlikely AMY would move far after this time. Indeed the WHOLE GROUP may not have moved. We reached the plantation at around 7:30, the light fading fast. We were so focussed on fixing the traps and staring at it through my head-torch’s light and that of our phones that we were a bit surprised when we were finally done (thick wire, two pliers and 2 very tired people). It was dark and other than the occasional firefly, every thing else was dark except the camp of the plantation workers in the distance. We got back to the car quickly before we could be even more creeped out by the eyes on the ground that belonged to animals larger than rats. Anna started the Kembara….or…..tried. Again, and again and again. We both looked at each other, “we had just got it back from the workshop, what the hell, it’s creepy here at night, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, oh f***” were some of the thoughts simultaneously running through our minds condensed into that look. I called Michele and quickly told her about our predicament though before I could tell her to come pick us up, my cell-phone reception was lost and Anna hadn’t had any to start with. This was the pits I thought before Anna pushed while I steered the Kembara into one to stay out of the way of tractors and trucks tomorrow. In order for any calls to be made, we would have to start walking so we thought-might as well walk towards exiting the plantation-towards home. Anna was glad I had volunteered, she really didn’t want to be in this situation by herself. Finally we reached a place where I called Nadine and Anna could leave a message on whatsapp in case Michele hadn’t heard the sheer panic in my voice when I called. We drowned out the eerie silence interrupted by frog and cricket sounds with useless banter and trudged on.


We were almost out of the plantation when we saw lights at a bend on the road. It was Leo and Michele on the 2 bikes and boy were we glad. It was close to 9 when we did finally reach. I have a morning shift tomorrow so I’m heading to bed hoping we can indeed find them at or near the sleeping site indeed.


8th March 2017 (LAST DAY OF WORK): Retrieval and farewell


Lea and I went upriver, climbing the dangerously sharp rocks slick with rain water and careful stepped on loose soil filled with bertam clumps. And the moment we got up with no breath left, it was immediately evident that AMY was definitely not here. But I wasn’t taking any risks. AMY can be super quiet. The rain this morning meant they might still be in the trees and in no hurry to make noise or wake up. But most of all I was afraid of not being able to see and follow AMY on my last day of work. Just then we heard faint sounds. OR we thought we heard sounds from downhill. But it could be longtails or just our imagination even. Eitherway, we went downhill, this time via a route I knew wasn’t as fraught with danger. At the river though, the silence was apparent. But we climbed to the hill on he other side anyway, a place they do usually sleep on in my short experience. We only had to reach a little high before I saw my first pig-tail for the day- a juvenile walking gingerly on a thin branch trying to get to the bertam nearby. After the relief, I immediately shared the news with the others back at camp and Anna and Leo who were stuck in mud with the car enroute to Nadine’s house (they did get rescued pretty quickly…relatively).


Lea and I had relaxed immediately and settled down for a bit of AMY-watching although on the edge of a wet cliff while monkeys are in trees is not the best condition to do so. We saw Oliver and both Lea and I exchanged tales of his masturbation (apparently Oliver had also masturbated MULTIPLE times later in the afternoon- good for you Oliver). Emma was alive and well and I was relieved yet again by her presence. Everything had grown quiet after around 5 minutes of activity. Luckily, I had the pregnant Scarlet in my line of sight and I wasn’t going to let her out of there. She swung from her sleeping tree on to another and then a third where she settled down. This tree, was big and on the stream’s bank, which meant the only way we could follow AMY was by climbing down the cliff (Damn our lost arboreality). Easier said than done. However, AMY didn’t seem to be going anywhere soon so we were able to climb down the path where I had retrieved the first machete from, with Leo. Indeed, the trees were quite tall and we followed AMY purely on sound for a while. We hadn’t stopped and rested much and I still wasn’t sure which direction the pig-tails intended to move in, and after the exhaustion from yesterday’s adventures, I was mostly running on ‘This-is-my-last-day’ juice. They moved a bit more and climbed up the same hill we had climbed this morning and stayed at the same site we had looked for them at this morning. “Don’t go to the checkpoint 3 swamp please” I prayed silently to the pig-tail god. They went into the large clump of Bertam and grew silent. It occured to Lea and me that we had both forgotten our machetes and this Bertam was thick and strong and entangled with other species of spiny plants. We kicked and pushed, got spines in our boots (Lea got one that pierced into her boot) and in our hair. Most times though we took advantage of our small statures (advantageous for once) and scraped by or crawled through the undergrowth like the pig-tails.


To add to all the drama, in last night’s confusion, Michele had forgotten to check if our GPS batteries were charging and now we were on our last bit of GPS power from the 3rd pair of cells. So we tried our level best to reduce our use of it. Lea had the GPS so I had no idea what was the closest place. We had come out of the bertam-barrier and were now on the other side of the hill close o the next stream with the checkpoint 2 hill on the other side. We had heard some individuals moving in his direction but now the sounds had stopped. I went ahead towards the stream but the source was revealed to be long-tails. Dusky-langurs spotted me wildy searching around for a sign of pig-tails while I panicked internally. It was so close to the end of our shift and my last shift. AAAAARRRGHHHH! But wait, Lea called out, there’s sounds closer to us. A juvenile- Felicia! and then Emily, Emanuel, Renate, Reggie and Febe. All going downhill. In our panic, we hadn’t realised how close we were to ‘The clearing’. Most of AMY was in the plantation and as if waiting for us (probably Febe and the others though), they began moving quickly into the plantation, at least 2 sections deep. And then I saw Franzi, the Heimdall of AMY and now rare-occurance. I silently went to ech individual and bid them adieu. They were the reason I had come here in the first place and despite my incessant cribbing, I was going to miss these monkeys. Anna and Michele came to take over and Lea and I returned home. I started my final packing- it wasn’t a lot of work. I met Ameer, the new volunteer who will travel across the country finding and collecting faecal samples of pig-tails for Anna. I got chance to learn about him and we all discussed where my farewell dinner was going to be.


Anna and Michele got back a little early and we decided to forgo our usual food-haunt for another one- a Malay sea-food place. Which unfortunately we couldn’t find but we went to another one and had some amazing fish (Siakap/sea bass), calamari fritters, tom-yam among other things. The Malay ability to eat so many things in such large quantities (like those of some people in Kerala too) amazes me still. It was bitter sweet, this meal and we were tired. I had done my last bit of work for the project and bought bright nail paint to mark the rats the project catches so they know they’ve done the individual if it gets caught again. We went to Tesco and I got some ready-to eat Laksa and pandan and normal Kaya for my family as ‘a taste of Malaysia’.


9th April 2017, Sunday: So long, farewell, auf wiedhersen, goodbye…ok now let me go…seriously


I got up early despite our late night because Anna was doing a full day today and wouldn’t see me before I left this afternoon. Goodbyes are weird. To me, even hellos are weird, or holding a conversation not related to work or studying or science or Harry Potter. But still, goodbyes are awkward and since I didn’t know how to put all my feelings into an eloquent cheesy poem, I hugged Anna and said “Thanks for everything”. She is a badass woman and I hope she knows that. I wished her all the best with everything and saw her and Lea off. After an hour, Leo and I went to the plantation to see if we had caught any rats. Unfortunately we hadn’t. I was hoping to process at least one rat but again this is a lesson about studying animals in their natural environment. No matter how well you have planned things, the animal is the one factor that you can’t control or manipulate and is also most crucial to you.


We got back and I sat around, washed my sheets and cleaned the hut, made sure the plant catalogue was complete or as complete as I could make it and dealt with my travel jitters by eating and keping myself busy. Soon, it was time for Michele and I to repeat the same goodbyes. Michele, being more expressive was also evidently sad. And that saddened me even more. We are both somewhat equally obstinate in our views, most are similar but some are very different and she and I have had some interesting debates. We wished each other luck and I saw her and Ameer off. Soon, Nadine came to pick me up and I rushed around to bid Leo and Lea adieu.


The drive to Penang took loner than predicted but I wasn’t too worried. I had received an email two days ago saying that although my class couldn’t be upgraded for the first leg of my trip (Penang-KL), I had now been upgraded to business class for my KL-Mumbai leg which is what I was also able to check in for. Nadine and I said our farewells. I could not have thanked her enough for the amazing opportunity I got, all the things I learnt, and all the networks she had set up for me in case I wanted to continue to work with primates. She dropped me and left for home. I entered and went to the counter and gave my ticket saying I wasn’t able to print the boarding pass. The lady looked at my ticket. “When did you book these tickets mam?”. “Well, a long time ago-obviously, maybe September or October”. “Actually mam, this flight has been cancelled. Didn’t you get an email day before yesterday?. And the other flight to KL just left, you should have coe earlier”. Now, I like to think that I am a calm person and can be assertive when I want to be. But such panic and dread means I squeaked and mumbled “What” a lot. I was surprised at how fast I composed myself and checked my emails. It turns out their records showed that I had got an email but my inbox and spam folder showed otherwise. And for once I was assertive. I was asked to wait. And I spent the end of my trip worrying whether I’s be able to leave that day. Luckily, the airline lady said they could put me on the next flight at 8:25, checking my baggage all the way through to Mumbai although it gave ME only 45 minutes to disembark, emigrate and get onto the next flight. I was moving in hilly terrain everyday and was at the peak of my physical fitness. It turns out that physical strain for 3 months was nothing- a fact I was made aware of when I rushed out of one plane to catch the other, emigrating on the way. The KL airport’s vastness and planning meant I had blacked out when I reached the gate H8 mentioned on the boarding pass I had been smart enough to print out in Penang. Only, I got there with 20 minutes till my flight to learn that the gate had been changed to G6. And if you though G and H gate should be close, you’s be wrong. They are in opposite wings. I ran as fast as I could- exhausted, my thighs and knees screaming with the surge of lactic acid. I did make it to the gate. People- definitely Mumbaikars were all crowded around the gate (No queue, lots of Marathi/Gujarati and talks about Mumbai traffic). I was relieved and annoyed to hear that the gate had changed thrice already when the gate just got changed a 4th time, to H10. So I went back to the same place I had run from, this time releived to be with people and not having missed the flight.


When we did get there, the gate had changed again. And this time, I didn’t have to get angry and fight. The Mumbai spirit did it for me. People refused to move and demanded to know what the hell was going on. They were sick of changing gates. The plane was supposed to take off in 10 minutes; a feat impossible if people aren’t onboard. We finally got hold of someone from the airline who informed us that the flight was delayed- by an hour and a half and then gave us the final boarding gate. I was glad my Business-class upgrade still stuck and I enjoyed some pampering for 5 hours to make up for my crazy day. I reached Mumbai at 2:30 am from the earlier 12:45 landing time. IT IS DONE- my Malaysia adventure.

Primate Diaries: Days-are you still counting? (55-58)

AUTHOR’S NOTE: This is an account of my experiences with the Macaca Nemestrina Project in Perak, Malaysia. Since, I don’t have great internet connection, each blog post will be an ccount of 3 days. I will try to explain biology jargon and/or provide links for them. But I’m pressed for time as internet is precious and I use Starbucks’ wifi (shoutout to Starbucks for all the caffeine). Excuse the atrocious spelling and grammar. I’m using a tablet and I miss MS Word pointing out my errors. Photos are more difficult to upload and hope that my words are enough to paint a picture.

If not- follow me on twitter @mad_megs or instagram-meghamajoe for some images and videos.

Please read the previous posts for context. Feedback and questions are appreciated. Curiosity drives us. It drove me to this adventure.

10th March 2017, Friday: Stalking
Since Vino and I had managed to find and follow VOLDEMORT to their sleeping site, it only made sense if we could go hang out with them today. Of course, we can’t do it for the whole day but it’s important to have as much time with them as possible so they get used to us Orange-Oompa-loompas (Vino’s brilliant description of us).

Thus, Vino and I reached the sleeping site, a little late but at least we didn’t have to scramble through spiny shrubbery and Bertam in the dark. We reached the place where Voldemort had lunged at us but couldn’t hear anything. However, we had expected this. It would be likely that they went a little further around the hill. And as we predicted, we started to hear them better and even see them because of the lack of Bertum. This also meant that they could see us. The males were barking and support-shaking at each other, a morning ritual similar to AMY’s. I think it acts to reiterate or reconfiure social heirarchies- or is like exercising at the gym, one or the other, or even both (It’s all conjecture, might as well go all out). But upon seeing us, the males started directing the puckering and branch-shakes at us. That is till they realised they were quite high up (They usually climb onto high branches of strong trees for the morning ritual) and decided to go about their business. 2 individuals relatively close to us, seemingly male were mounting- a sign of peace-making amongst males- usually sub-ordinate mounts the dominant ones.

But only the males were here, the sound of the juevniles and females seemed to now be coming from further down. Well, it is good if they go down and into the plantation, we thought. We saw a swelling female on a tree and she semed to be going down. So we decided to follow her. Easy enough to say and do when you are not surrounded by thick entangles Bertum and bushes. This was an area we have never had to use. And that itself was exciting. As for the ‘chase’, it seemed not as exciting when all you were doing was trying your level best to catch a glimpse of a few individuals while they hoo-d and humm-ed all around you. In a way, we had aticipated this level of difficulty. The group is not used to us and we are unwelcome. VOLDEMORT has no reason to hang out with us. But the unnerving bit is that though you can’t see them, you know they can see you and they are watching you closely.

They were going further down and to the right. But since we were going downhill, our view of WHERE they were going was obscured by the trees. It could be one of thwo places now- further around the hill to get out onto the other plantation OR….’The Swamp’ at cehckpoint 3. We decided that it would be best if we got out of the forest to assess where they were going. Of course, getting out took some time and effort. We were always surrounded by pig-tail sounds though so it was all good.

We finally got out onto the road, not before we both got water in our boots and had to sit down to empty them and wring our socks. It was soon that we realised we couldn’t hear the monkeys anymore-just the garbled calls of long-tails. We walked all the way to the other plantation mostly because we weren’t confident we knew our way about ‘The Swamp’. In vain. We had managed to ‘follow’ them for an hour and 15 minutes. Same as yesterday. But hey, consistency is good. We should count this as success.

We did try to find them back, following the same protocol. Split up, look around, wait, return and repeat. We only needed to spend half a day with VOLDEMORT, which was an optimistic estimation by Anna and wishful thinking on our part. At least we got to see part of the forest we don’t normally see with AMY.

Turns out Michele, doing the afternoon shift had desperately tried to follow AMY but lost them in the swamp at check-point 1. A headache to be dealt with tomorrow. Could it be that both pig-tails were in two different swamps, AMY at 1 and VOLDEMORT at 3?

11-12-13 March 2017: Non-forest days, a summary

Made my visa run, from KL this time so had a good 4 and a haf hour bus ride before I got there. Maybe “volunteering for research on monkeys” wasn’t legit sounding to the emigration lady who hit me with the ominous “We’ll see”.

After having visited Medan in the cover of darkness, it was nice to see it in the light of day albeit fast fading. You”d think I had got enough sleep but oh how wrong you would be. I had a good restful sleep in a big-ish bed and woke up to a nice non-humid Sunday. I explored the vicinity a bit, saw a Sunday morning market and walked to a traditional mansion/museum that was, as it turns out- CLOSED. After contemplating my ethical dilemma in visiting a collection of taxidermied animals by a hunter, I decided against it. Mostly because it was too far away. After a simple lunch, I got back, lay in bed- caught up with my blog-writing and watched Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire back to back. Successful day I’d call it.

13th March: Checked out early in the morning (4 am train you’all). But this level of paranoia meant I was at the near empty airport quite early. People laugh at my insistence to be 2 and a half if not 3 hours early for an international flight. They haven’t seen the Home Alone movies I believe. Lack of people meant securiy was a breeze. Had to wait for immigration officers to actually arrive. This gave me an opportunity to get a free foot and leg massage from one of those fancy contraptions while I reclined in a plush chair. Needless to say, was first one when the emigration officers did arrive.
Got to KL- finally went to Pasar Seni, the old maret established in 1888 fo meat and fish but is now super-swanky and has clothes, souvenirs, handicrafts etc. An air conditioned bazaar of sorts. Visited an art-gallery, had to maek up for my lack of museum visits these past few months. Got out and went to the real market, and things I wanted to spend money on….food. Some good durian ice-cream and a short trip to 7-Eleven later (Major Australia nostalgia right there), I decided to head back.
This time, I didn’t miss my bus to Sitiawan. Unfortunately my plan to make up for lost sleep was thwarted by the toddler who screamed his heart out and decided he 5 hour bus journey was the perfect time to exercise his developing vocal chords. Just as I felt myself falling into a somewhat restful slumber, the bus seemed to be slowing down. We were stuck in a jam, IN SITIAWAN. We were almost an hour early. No big. I finally got a chance to sample the Pizza Hut where the bus stops while I waited for Anna. And yes, it seems like rip-off especially when you hardly spend anything on local dishes in outdoor cafeterias.
Well, we got back and decided that it seemed like a good night to walk to the beach. Full moon, low tide and luke warm water with a gentle breeze. We should do this more often. We were hoping for bioluminiscent algae (well- dinoflagellates to be precise) but no one seemed excessively disappointed.

Primate Diaries: Days 49-51

AUTHOR’S NOTE: This is an account of my experiences with the Macaca Nemestrina Project in Perak, Malaysia. Since, I don’t have great internet connection, each blog post will be an ccount of 3 days. I will try to explain biology jargon and/or provide links for them. But I’m pressed for time as internet is precious and I use Starbucks’ wifi (shoutout to Starbucks for all the caffeine). Excuse the atrocious spelling and grammar. I’m using a tablet and I miss MS Word pointing out my errors. Photos are more difficult to upload and hope that my words are enough to paint a picture.

If not- follow me on twitter @mad_megs or instagram-meghamajoe for some images and videos.

Please read the previous posts for context. Feedback and questions are appreciated. Curiosity drives us. It drove me to this adventure.

4th March:  Impending
I spent the morning lazing about. It was extremely hot and I was glad it wasn’t me who had to walk all the way to the forest early in the morning (Both bikes were in need of tweaking). Nadine and her husband came by to fix the bikes and it was almost 1 by the time I left but luckily AMY was in the plantation. Michele was nursing her newly formed blisters while Anna was yet again looking for the elusive Putih, who is master of sneaking around with her baby Pumeluff attached to her. I spotted her and yelled for Anna who came running to conduct her focal.

Anna and Michele left and AMY too decided that they had had enough. The thunder sounded threatening and strong winds were blowing. It is the sign of a storm brewing and I would be happier in the forest too when it started to pour. But AMY lingered on, spending time grooming and drinking from puddles in the buffer-zone at the cusp of the plantation and the forest. Norbert sat there, in all his magnificence and made some grunting noises in response to or as a stimulus for the juveniles’ humming. I had my eye on Pippi who is swelling again. Brienne, it turns out is definitely not pregnant and is now hanging about the periphery of the group to solicit some mounting. I followed Febe, through the access point at Checkpoint 2. Inside, it was cosier and I already felt protected from the wind. But soon, the sun was streaming through. False alarm about the rain then. Though the thunder seemed unrelenting and growing louder. AMY hung about for a while before starting to climb up.

Yet again, Casimodo and I had a stand-off. He puckered at me and moved toward me while I decided to stand my ground till he was too close. Waving your arm like I do to get the juveniles when they get too curious is not avstrategy that works. Plus, Casimodo is a pretty big male. Luckily, he got distracted and decided that was more novel than I. We were steadily climbing for what felt like a half-hour. A lot of it was obviously me just being paranoid about losing them and climbing too fast without realising my foot was placed in lose soil. When I did reach flattish land, my view was obscured by all the Bertums. I could only hear the pig-tails yet again ravishing, what Nadine claims is a rather bland snack.

We seemed to be going along the same route Anna and I had climbed the hill up yesterday. But at least we seemed to be going downhil.. Maybe they were going back into the plantation since it didn’t rain after all I thought. I leaned against a tree to rest my weary legs. I had a good view of Pippi puckering at Pie who dutifully came to groom her mother while Lori was in a Bertum clump in my line of sight too. And then I felt a drop, and then another. But it didn’t feel like rain. I could see a pig-tail’s behind and I quickly jumped away. I just got peed on. I had heard this happens and it had almost happened on two-three separate ocassions but….ah well, at least it wasnt a full shower onmy face I thought. But I now had a good view of the perpetrator-of-pee. It was my new nemesis Tiga, the soon-to-be sub-adult who has been skittish and puckering a lot at me off-late. However, I saw what he was doing. He was actually scooping out and drinking the water that had filled up in a stump on the tree. SO it was water, that explains why it wasn’t warm and continuous. Close call but I’m guessing my initiation into getting peed on will happen one day or another.

I didn’t have to wait long before AMY began moving once again. This time in the direction of checkpoint 2, I hoped. I was not ready to deal with the swamp at checkpoint 1 by myself. The thunder was louder and the wind was strong enough to shake the trees inside the forest as well. Plus, this was the same hill where Michele and I had become confused thanks to the longtails, yesterday and I knew they regularly hang out there. And right I was. AMY was currently sprinkled with long-tails. Tiga bullied Curli into giving up his nice tree-bark with a lot of potential insects while a juvenile I couldn’t identify, played with a juvenile long-tail….for quite a while. And the long-tail, after giving an alarm-call and realising that his playmate and playmates troop didn’t care, realised that I probably wasn’t a threat and guessed that I probably couldn’t climb up a tree anyway. They mock-bit each othe, swiped at each others tails and swung aboutwhile holding the other in a tight embrace. It was adorable. I moved a bit ahead thinking that soon we would be in the plantation. We were so close after all.

But I waited and waited. Pippi groomed Putih for a solid half hour and the huveniles were playing and calling. Putig groomed a female for quite some time and I realised it was Pamkin, who we recently hypothesised is probably one of the three highest ranking sisters’ trio, and quite aggressive too. Norbert had returned again and fulfilled his seemingly minimal and obligatory duty of grunting in return to all juveniles’ hmmms and getting a hoooo…back. Maybe that’s how they also keep check to see if all the individuals are present, though the males don’t usually care I would think (Males leave the group, females form the core permanent group- google Female Philopatry in primates). I was really getting worried about being rained on. Luckily I had reception and was able to tell people at camp to come pick me up slightly early.

It was surprising how close they were too the plantation, but how difficult this place was to access, thanks to the water I would have to cross, and the horribly tangled mass of lianas interspersed with clumps of Bertum. I finally got out though. Anna had just arrived and eveerything looked bone-dry. I felt silly but Anna was understanding. She said she wouldn’t have taken the risk either. Plus, AMY hadn’t moved for an hour and had gone through the sleep-time ritual already so we felt more confident. We went to the city, earlier than we had ever gone before. It was weird! Anna ‘s standing fan had breathed its last, we attribute it to one most terrifying thunder strike the other day. I also needed to run some errands before my next trip to Indonesia so we spent a precious couple of hours in the city and got back at a somewhat decent hour. Ok I’m lying, it was 12 when we reached home. But, we tried.

5th March 2017, Sunday : The sun’ll come out tomorrow

I woke up to the sound of thunder, but the air smelt dry. Anna and I headed out, me hoping that AMY had indeed stayed at what I had marked as the sleeping site, considering how early they had seemed to be done for the day yesterday. We were on the tarred road when we felt the drops turning into an ominous drizzle. “Do you want to stop so we can put our rain jackets on?” Anna asked. “I don’t care as much, but the tablet in my bag needs to be protected” I replied. We quickly covered all the equipment and protected ourselves as best we could. But when the real rain hit, it didn’t matter. It was pouring so hard and the wind was blowing. It was still dark and the rain meant Anna couldn’t see where we were going “We can get to Nadine’s house, I think it’s not too far” Anna suggested. Atleast we’ll know where it is because there will be light. Since their house is built in the traditional Malay architecture, it’s on the modern version of stilts, so there’s the space underneath that doubles up as garage, workspace and bike shed. We got there at around 6:55, already wet thanks to the storm. We sat at the kids’ arts and crafts table and talked to while away our time. In order to allay any fears of thieves that Nadine’s family might have, we sent her a message explaining that we were under their house perse and not home invaders.

Half an hour later, the rain seemed in no hurry to stop or slow down. Nadine was up and offered us some warm tea and coconut bread. Might as well we thought. And then she warmed our damp spirits when she asked us “Did you see the cats, the babies I mean?”. And then she brought them out. 5 little itsy-bitsy kittens in our laps and we were almost glad for the rain. Their mother, a silky ginger cat was hanging around with another female ginger who is also pregnant. “So many kittens”, I breathed into the ear of one who was trying to snooze on my thigh while her 2 siblings clambered over her to investigate their surroundings. Anna and I reluctantly got up to leave. the rain had definitely slowed down to a drizzle and we anticipated the monkeys to have moved. When it rains for too long, even if it’s heavy, AMY moves sometimes, as if they get bored of waiting or they look for better shelter. We reached the plantation at 9:15 am, expecting to have to look for AMY, a laborious task but I thought might as well try the sleeping site first. Yes it took time to get there. It’s a weird place though quite close to the plantation. We were pleasantly surprised to find that AMY was still there, waiting for us. “Aww, you guys”, I exclaimed as if hoping for some response from them. But it was Anna who spoke- “They are going to the plantation, we have to go there really fast, we will lose them otherwise”. What, to me it seemed like they would take some time, but Anna seems to correctly guess a lot of things about AMY so we got out as quickly as possibly. They were nowehere near the buffer zone. Anna ran further into the plantation while I wondered why AMY would so deep into the plantation so fast. But there they were, moving from one plot to another. We ran crossing the moat with some difficulty. Soon enough we were amongst them.

Anna began her focal, again starting with Putih and her babay Pummeluff, while she could and I started with the ID check and entering ad-libitum events. These behaviurs, usually interactions between individuals-aggressive, affiliative or sexual help us form ethograms and matrices to establish the heirarchy and social relations. After watching Phoenix chase the little independent infant Reggie, I wandered towards Scarlet. She is my favourite female, always calm, mostly grooming her juveniles Tiga and Schatz. Off-late, Tiga-probably on the cusp of sub-adulthood is acting like a human teenage brat and starting to be skittish and invade our personal space. Scarlet, thanks to her pregnancy which is great, is unfortunately also becoming very squirmish though Anna swears it wasn’t like this when she was pregnant with Schatz. And thus, when I went close to her to see if I could get Phoenix’s faeces, she alarm called and screamed till I went away. A little deflated, I decided to hang out with the swelling females, who become a little more bold- you have to be to get non-alphas to mount you without running helter-skelter. A lesson Pippi and Jane still haven’t learned, they run too quickly away after a male mounts them sometimes.

I came across Emma and at a good time too- Anna was looking for her to do a focal. She suggested I look out for Anakin, so i did and then she said I should look out for and keep an eye on Mina-next on the focalling list. We didn’t have to try too hard. Anakin was following Mina, who is sweling again. He puckered and mounted, puckered and mounted again and then they separated. So I foloowed Mina, watched her sexual trysts and recorded them. Passed both Norbert and Oliver on the ground, looking up expectantly at other individuals foraging. There are I think many reasons the big males, who ususallly tend to be higher ranking, don’t climb trees often:
1) They have a great view of the females swells from underneath and can also spot any sneaking around if they decide to stick to and guard one female.
2) They are usually too big and it might be difficult to get their humongous lumbering forms up and across most trees plus their callosites seems pretty small in proportion and the handicap (google Zahavi’s handicap principle) that is the ball-sack is not a great thing to have to sit upon.
3) Most importantly and probably to put in anthropomorphic terms- they sustain themselves by mooching off the food that fell down when others- females, smaller males and juveniles dropped things, usually while stepping on a weak part of the bark, they also can use their superiority and physical strength to snatch food.

Just as I was thinking this, I saw evidence of the last point. Phoenix was looking for insects or other creatures, moving around prying the bark open when we heard a squeal. A rat had fallen down. Before anyone could react, Oliver had already expertly gripped the rat and beheaded it with his canine. I forgot about Mina, and so did he – he was just puckering at her a moment ago (refer to point 1). This is yet another thing we put in ad-libitum. It helps establish whether the pig-tails are actually controlling the population of rodents, a big pest of oil-palm plantations, rather than the pig-tails that are considered to be. Anna decided that she would rather do a focal on Oliver- she needed to do him next anyway. We saw him expertly turn the rat inside out to get to the flesh without bothering with the fur and skin. After being grossed out by the goriness, I decided to get back to Mina, and let Anna deal with Oliver. I realised we had been in the plantation for quite a while. I didn’t want to leave Anna alone- especially because we feared another rain- the sun still wasn’t out. But I was exhausted somehow and Anna said she’d manage. Additionally, she wanted me to leave asap so i didn’t have to drive in the rain, if it did rain. So I wished her all the best, hoped for good weather and non-swampy terrain. Not that it mattered, the moat crossing today had already filled her boot with water. She is looking forward to her day off tomorrow to hopefully dry her things.

6th March 2017, Monday: It’s lonely at the top

We were still functioning with one bike which means, since Anna had her day off I had to go with Michele in the morning, just to bring the bike back, so I could go in the afternoon shift. The logistics management is a skill I wish was something I could formally put in my CV. I came back, almost got creeped out by a turkey, near the house that didn’t seem to know it’s boundaries (Check out my instagram for proof). You’d know if you know how weird Geese, swan and even chickens can get sometimes- especially if they decide to mob and/or chase you. Had a good breakfast and read a book. The weather seemed okay, much better than yesterday.

I reached the reserve at around 1:30, AMY had just reached the plantation. They were still hanging out in the buffer zone. We swiftly made the exchange of GPSs, i collected the tablet and Michele was on her way, I watched as some Scarlet and Schatz foraged a little distance away from me. I sat down to record any interesting exchange. I didn’t have to wait long. I heard a tussle rght above me. Pippi, who is starting to swell was minding her own business around 5 m away from Norbert (Who was on the tree today), was suddenly viciously chaed and bitten by Goldie-the female we believe is the alpha. Pippi almost fell off the last bit off the palm and ran to another tree nearby. Goldie calmly started grooming Norbert, weird as her swell is definitely going down. But we have seen even Pamkin and Scarlet grooming him, when they are not swelling, and he lets them- probably has something to do with their social standing (They are possibly the highest ranking females-probably sisters). A while later, Norbert had moved to the other tree and so Pippi got chased by Goldie again. Poor thing can’t catch a break.

Surprisingly, AMY decided that they had had enough and were goig back into the forest, after spending only an hour in the border of the plantation. Well, AMY is full of surprises. Better not question it- no time to anyway, considering how fast they were moving. Not even hanging out at the forest border like they usually do after their plantation visits. I waited in the plantation for a bit and I’m glad I did. I got to witness Mina get mounted by Phoenix twice. I turned around to see if Putih had finally gone in and when I turned back- holy hell- PHOENIX WAS GROOMING MINA. A male grooming a female is a rare occurance and I was sad I couldn’t record it on my phone. Best ad-libitum recording ever- although probably an outlier of male to female affiliative acts. I finally reached inside, watched as the last of the males came trickling in. Casimodo and Anakin sat almost huddled together as they each got presented to by Pippi and Mina, neither of whose offers they seemed to want to take. I watched as Febe followed Putih in the hopes to groom her only to have those hopes dashed when mina lunged her into running away and up a tree near me. We were quickly climbing up now. I was a little surprised at the steady movements with little time for breaks but Anna said they did the same yesterday after their day at the plantation.

We were reaching a part of the hill I detested all the spiny Bertums, clumps of them as far as the eye can see. Mostly because the eyes can’t see too far BECAUSE of the Bertums. I remembered that I had forgotten to take the Machete from Michele. Too late now! Well, AMY was still moving and it was becoming more difficult to see them. And unlike the last time, they didn’t seem too interested in feeding on Bertum fruits. They climbed up and down, up and down. I tried to keep up and was successful except for a few scares here and there. Once, i was with just a juvenile in sight whigh was Lori as I figured out and it was just Lori, Pippi and Pie. not a good combo as they are closely related, and Pippi seems to get lost quite a bit. Her lost call wsn’t filling me with confidence. But then the others came over and I was relieved.

We were heading to an area I wasn’t familiar with and I reckoned we were quite high up already. I thought we might be near the vantage point that boasts great views of the ocean when the sun sets- according to Anna. Well, maybe I’d finally get to see this amazing sunset over the ocean. We were climbing quite high now and the Bertums were making things really difficult. It was like in the swamp-I could only hear the pig-tails from time to time. And then we reached a place with less of an incline and fewer Bertums. Finally I can sit and drink some water I thought. Having a snack was out of the question at the rate AMY was moving. And then I realised why there were fewer Bertum- It was filled with huge boulders and mossy rocks. I saw Mina and Brienne disappear to a much clearer are to my left. All the males were hanging out to my right and juveniles had already climbed up via the spiny bertums that were around. I went left after where I’s seen Brienne and Mina disappear to. I’d just go up and wait for all of AMY to get up there.

I followed the clear path. It turns out, after the first bend, there was a rather steep climb and ofcourse I fell on my face, onto Bertums. But I got up there eventually, with scratches and spines sticking out; I’d had to go through some more clumps of Bertum and was really regeretting not getting the machete. I was sweating and hungry but a small breeze blew and I relaxed a bit. I still couldn’t hear AMY. Seeing them was out of the question. After waiting for close to 5 minutes I started moving about, AMY wasn’t coming, I realsed in horror and I was filled with dread. I went up further, I was almsot at the top. Some more Bertum, there was a sense of urgency now that I needed to desperately find them. They would have had to have gone up- why would they turn back and go down? Why were there so many Bertum- what was that sound? THEM? Nope. The wind here was stronger and I could hear eagles at close range. There was a nest up here. The GPS showed that I had reached the pinacle. I could see the ocean. It was difficult because of all the bertum but yes it looked nice. It was only only 4:55. And I was here, in a part of the forest I wasn’t familiar with and AMY wasn’t here with me. When you are with the pig-tails, it doesn’t matter if you are the only person around. It is safe. But right now and here, it was a little unnerving. I breathed a bit, drank some water, realised I was sweating like a pig and that the GPS had lost satelite reception. Luckily my phone hadn’t and so I made the call I really didn’t want to make.

I called Michele, explained things to her and then to Anna. Michele said she’d come pick me up. I wanted an hour, one because I didn’t really know the way back down and two, I hoped I would find AMY on the way. It was difficult, going down. Luckily at least the GPS was working. But I spent some time always chasing every sound I thought I heard only to realise my way was blocked by huge cumps of bertum and that I was afraid of veering of the already dis-used trail which was probably relatively better than other areas. It was 5:45 and I was still in an area I wasn’t too sure I had been in. I wasn’t sure if the GPS was showing me the right direction. I was disoriented. I sat down, breathed deeply and opened my eyes after a few moments. I knew this rock. I’ve been here before. I’m definitely on the right track, it’s just from a different angle. After some confusion, I finally got out after a bit of back and forth with Michele over walkie-talkie abbout how far I was.

I got back feeling quite dejected. It’s really sad when you lose AMY because looking for them means spending time you could have been observing and collecting data. Anna asked to see my track. “At least I saw the beautiful view” I said. She looked at my track intently, saw where I’d marked “AMY LOST”. “Wait, you actually went all the way up the hill looking for them?, It’s so high. The beautiful viewing point is far below this” she gasped. Seriously, so I’d gone and lost them and didn’t even see the beautiful viewing point? What a pathetic tragedy. But Anna was appreciative of my resillience and saw my anguish. I just wanted to curl up in bed after taking a shower. But we had to go into town run errands and pick up Vino who comes back from KL. I decided that I needed to splurge and feel good about myself. And thus today, I had some good Chicken claypot Biryani. Anna insisted I take my day off tomorrow even though I volunteered to help her, Michele and vino look for AMY. I think I need the break. But AMY will be there tomorrow and so will we.

Primate Diaries:Days 46-48

AUTHOR’S NOTE: This is an account of my experiences with the Macaca Nemestrina Project in Perak, Malaysia. Since, I don’t have great internet connection, each blog post will be an ccount of 3 days. I will try to explain biology jargon and/or provide links for them. But I’m pressed for time as internet is precious and I use Starbucks’ wifi (shoutout to Starbucks for all the caffeine). Excuse the atrocious spelling and grammar. I’m using a tablet and I miss MS Word pointing out my errors. Photos are more difficult to upload and hope that my words are enough to paint a picture.

If not- follow me on twitter @mad_megs or instagram-meghamajoe for some images and videos.

Please read the previous posts for context. Feedback and questions are appreciated. Curiosity drives us. It drove me to this adventure.


1st March- The bliss

So it turns out that the thieves came back when we went to the city for emergency internet and finished the job-raiding the fridge. Now that we have little food left, we doubt we will be hit thrice in a row. And that is exactly why I spent a large portion of my day trying to sleep. It was my day off and i intended to make the most of it. But sleep eluded me no matter how hard I tried. So I gave up and decided to have an early breakfast of cramelised banana and cereal while reading up on some pig-tail macaque literature. That is after I had a run in with a particularly bold long-tail who has been hanging about our kitchen for the past few days. He is fearless in manner and unwavering in spirit (yes I tried saying “shooo shoo” while moving toward him menacingly)

Though the day wasn’t sunny, it was sultry and I did get an hour of siesta time before Michele returned after her shift. We are still running on a single bike which like yesterday, meant Michele would have to go pick Anna up at Checkpoint 2 at 7 pm. Michele quickly got busy working on her research proposal while I read a few more papers. It’s been quite a few months since I’ve read science-y things continuously for more than an hour and anyone who has been out of touch will tell you how difficult it can be to get back into the reading. So I was happy I’ve still got the ability to read, understand and critique papers without falling asleep or getting too distracted all the time (Facebook and instagram being too slow are probably a contributing factor).

By 6, the temperature had dropped considerably and it had started to drizzle. Michele had just fed the cats when she received a message from Anna “If you guys get this, can you please come pick me up earlier. It will not stop raining and I am in the swamp”. Oh no! So the rain was worse there than it was here. Michele left as soon as she had adequately covered herself against the rain. I sat at the table outside sipping warm tea and petting Mieza, the cat who had decided to shelter himself against the rain and sit on my non-drenched, relatively warm thighs (Yes, he is sort of spoilt by us). But soon, the storm hit. The wind picked up and the rain was lashing against every surface, dripping or spraying through eveerywhere. I had to run with the folder of papers, my phone and the notebook. Miezer soon followed- my room was better sanctuary, and he was soon curled up against the curtains near the desk. Michele and Anna got back without me even realising, because I couldnt hear the bike through the raging storm.

After getting the low-down from Anna, we realised we would have to buy basic provisions to last us through the week. So after the rain had eased up a bit and Anna had treated yet another faeces sample, we went to the supermarket, discussing possible security measures to enforce around the kitchen. And people say you don’t learn any skills when you volunteer as a field assistant on a biology research project!!

2nd March 2017,Thursday: Loss

Anna and I took the logging road to get to the swamp. Turns out AMY was at the swamp at checkpoint 1 and not ‘The Swamp’ at checkpoint 3. Still, it wasn’t easy to get there, what with all the swampiness, now increased thanks to last night’s mini-storm. We could hear AMY long before we could ctually get to them and I had spines in my palm while Anna had water in her boots before we even got there. We really hoped they went immediately into the plantation, me more than anyone. Apparently AMY had spent a better part of yesterday, deep in the plantation, that is before they suddenly realised the rain was about to hit and sought refuge in the swamp, strengthening my confidence inAnna’s hypothesis that they spend the night in the swamp when the rain is going to be particularly harsh.

So there we were, removing leeches left and right. I had one in my hair and when Anna spotted and removed it, there was blood on her hand. Mine. And here we were, thinking hair would protect us. Such naivete. Emma was the only one on the ground….foraging. Big surprise! Jisuaf was here and I saw Norbert chase the swelling probably-alpha female Goldie and her probable sister, close in rank- Pamkin. We decided to follow Emma on her foraging trail, at least we know she won’t forage on the ground in areas that are too wet and swampy. We saw that she had found a fruit, opened it to reveal a transluscent-white flesh and was enjoying her loot. After photographing the fruit and debating which tree it might have come from Anna said she must look for Febe to do a mother-infant focal on her and Fefe, her daughter. And if Emma is around, Febe should be nearby. And then Anna spotted her monitoring the area, from a tree near us. “Wait, where’s her baby?” Anna exclaimed. “What, do you mean, are you sure it’s her?”. ANd then she gave out this loud wail. We had been hearing the lost call for close to 10 minutes now. This was not a godd sign. Anna looked worried. She had seen this many times before. The infant mortality rate was very high, especially considering the rain, the deep water. And considering Fefe was too small to go anywhere on her own, the only possibility is drowning. I considered the possibility that she was with Emily, but Febe’s cries were desperate and Emily wasn’t around. She would come if she heard Febe. The sound of Febe’s call was haunting and deep-well scientifically it makes sense- a low pitch sound probably carries really far. At that moment, in the stillness after the rain, it was disturbing and sad. And, no one else seemed to be visibly upset by it. Not even Febe’s moher Emma.

Febe stopped after a while of calling from different directions. It is possible her baby was gone last night during the rain, she just was resting her chords before calling again at regular intervals. Anna decided to do a focal on the only visible individual easy enough to track in the swamp- Emma. She was foraging for a bit before climbing on a low hanging branch. I sat down on a relatively dry trunk to remove my 4th leech for the day- I had 12 the last time I was in this swamp, we were just getting started. Emma was getting groomed by her 1 year old Emanuel, who was only trying to get to her nipples so he could drink milk.

But Emma was having none of it. She turned away and then after he kept pestering her she seemed aggressive, holding him and pulling his ear. Finally, when none of the tactics worked, she just climbed down and went away. Febe had started calling again. AMY seemed to be in no mood to move. We realised it was 11 already and they weren’t going anywhere. So we whiled away our time by talking-shop, discussing experimental designs peratining to Anna’s project and if research needs to necessarily have a purpose that is not “satiating need for knowledge”. Yeah, we were bored and couldn’t even do Inter-Observer Reliability tests because the individuals were so hard to see amongst the canopy anyway. I waited till 12:30 while Anna sat drying her socks and feet, before I got out after a bit of a struggle and got back home. Michele had Anna’s co-ordinates and went to the forest.

I decided that I should do something productive after having spent some hours trying to take a nap after lunch. So I finally decided that it was getting un-sunny and cool enough to sit outside. After feeding the cat and making myself some ginger tea, I decided that it was time to type out yesterday and today’s events. The rain started soon, as you may have guessed and I worried about making the journey with the tablet to my hut. I heard the gate open. Michele and Anna were back at…6:30 pm- just like the good old days when I first arrived and it rained all the time. Through the crashing rain and thunder, we screamed out the basics. AMY had finally come out into the plantation and stayed till 4 before going back to the swamp. Then, I got to the desk, opened my window and sit here, typing this as a mighty thunder strikes and the winds rage. I am watching the same sugar-canes in the unused field outside my window but I don’t know how long even their sturdy looking stem can withstand the storm’s strength.

3rd March: Recovering

Michele and I left early in the morning, reaching the sleeping site after some confusion (the forest does look very different early in the morning as Michele realised). Last evening’s rain meant Michele and Anna had left earlier than usual but we didn’t expect AMY to have moved much. The long-tails were around and so were the duskies. And bless-my-heart I could hear the Gibbons…well GIBBON! This male had quite a voice, it echoed through the forest and I forgot for a moment to be sad that he was looking for a female who wasn’t responding. The gibbons’ duets are apparently a treat to the ears. We sat there silently, listening to the booming melody. We climbed up a little higher because the ruckus being made by the climbing long-tails was making it hard to heard the muffled sounds by the juveniles. And then a lost call. “Must be Febe”, I said, still in mourning about her lost baby although apparently she didn’r cry after her morning session. But maybe, she remembered again that she used to have a baby.

We waited for a half an hour, but AMY didn’t seem to have any plans to move. And they didn’t go to their morning male-bark ritual or the female-juvenile contact calls. But then it hit us- we needed to have visual confirmation immediately that wasn’t the one male on the tree far below that we could see or the juvenile we thought we saw in th tree nearby. And we went up a little further to have a better view from the hill. By the time we had begun moving a little bit, we had both silently begun to think “AMY lost” without wanting to say it out loud. ANd they were so close to the plantation too. How come I never get a day when AMY just spends all their time in the plantation?

And since we were growing weary without a clue where AMY could be- we went home. Sometimes it good to quit so you don’t feel too mentally exhausted. And the funny thing is that we definitel feel more tired when we are not following AMY even though we don’t necessarily walk through difficult terrain. Since we are functioning on 1 bike since the other one has a flat wheel, Anna and I decided that the two of us would go. They probably went uphill really fast and without much warning or contact-calling according to Anna. Apparently, they have a tendency to do that. Sneak off up a hill, or even down without so much as a peep. Which means they would have to be in the plantation sometime in the early afternoon.

We got there around 2:15 and separated to find the pig-tails. We knew they would have to be close to checkpoint 1-2.5. So I was walking at the edge of the plantation, the buffer zone to the forest when I heard and saw some pig-tails. Some juveniles were going in and a male looked at me without puckering. “Found them Anna”, I said through the walkie-talkie. Anna was on her way when, another male- Oh Norbert…yay. Wait no. His arms are fuzzy and fair and a dark head but his tail was differen, Norbert’s amazing bushy , frayed tail. And then someone else came out to the edge of the forest. And all doubt rushed out along with all coherent thought. “Anna, it was the group VOLDEMORT, I just saw him- Voldemort. I’ll keep searching for AMY”. Well that was a premature celebration I thought walking into an area I normally wouldn’t go to. A little way into the plantation. And then I saw some movement on the ground. Surprsingly, it was a female pig-tail with a pig-tail running away as soon as she saw me. It does look like Chewbacca with her infant Chocolate and she DOES still run away from us. I followed in her direction, crossing a moat on the way. There was Scarlet, my saviour on many an ocassion, climbing up a palm while Tim followed. I heard noises, characteristically pig-tail, coming from the plot on the other side. “This time it is definitely AMY”, I told Anna.

She reached me soon enough and decided to focal Norbert without further ado. I went around doing an id-check. Febe, seemed okay, just sad to see her without her baby. Felicia, her other juvenile was nearby. Emma, as usual was on the ground. It was only 3 when AMY decided to finally respond to the looming thunder in the sky and start moving in though the rain was not too strong. Anna and I followed. She had just finished with Norbert who spent the whole time sitting around feeding from something he had stored in his cheek-pouch which I happened to see was pink when he happened to take it out. It was definitely flesh. We had later heard the bones crunch as he chewed them with his powerful jaws.

We started going up one hill, then crossed to another, through some Bertums till we reached a patch exclusively filled with them. Anna was doing a focal on Biru while I was stalking Tiga to see what he was eating and if I could photograph it. obviously he wasnt letting it go so easily. But I had enough and more time because AMY had found the Bertum fruit jackpot. Half an hour later, Anna seemed very happy. Biru had stayed in her line of sight eating the whole time after an initial hiccup when I had to stand on the other side and give her a running commentary of what Biru was up to. Unsurprising because all the individuals of AMY were bust partaking the very same fruits that grow on a stalk surrounded by spiny Bertum stems. AMY slowly began to move to the left, an area which we thought had taller, non-spiny trees. More approporiate for sleeping. And thus, after waiting for around 40 minutes and realising we were pretty far uphill and that I had worked almost 10 hours today, we climbed down, evading a more rainy time that the camp had evidently seen.